South Korea – Windmill Green Power; Andong UNESCO World Heritage Site

“Travel makes one modest.  You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” Gustave Flaubert

Reluctantly leaving splendid Gyeongju behind the next destination was a UNESCO World Heritage Site I was assured would be, for the small-town boy that I am at heart, a visual treat.  On the way, atop one of the innumerable hills in the area I spotted a windmill farm.   Never close up to one before without hesitation I turned off the highway and found the way up to discover more than I’d expected to see.  

(NOTE: To improve your viewing experience click on the photos below to enlarge – once for medium, twice to zoom in.)

These are so much bigger close up than can be imagined seen from the valley below.   I was surprised other than a softly blowing wind, no discernible sound other than a gentle whoosh emitted from the giant spinning wings generating valuable electric energy.   All in all a peaceful scene that was so much more agreeable to the eye and kind to our natural environment than the gigantic containment towers of radiation spewing nuclear power plants and carbon laden smoke belched out by coal burning power generating effectively ruining our atmosphere.   When I think about the killing wounds inflicted to our fragile blue planet, I wonder just what are they thinking the self-annointed ‘Captains of Industry’? Abetted by craven politicians who meekly kow-tow, do they not have offspring of their own or are they all as I suspect sterile eunuchs?  Well, I answered my own question.

Incidentally, to add weight to these admittedly acerbic comments, I have personally observed up-close the machinations of politicians (grubbing for votes and money to buy elections, always) and the lobbying pressure from industry to allow unrestricted action in the pursuit of the almighty dollar.  I say this as a former journalist and having also spent time within the Canadian Ministry of the Environment.  When Brian Mulroney took power (1984) with the Conservative Party (correlate to G.W. Bush and today’s Republican Party) the first order of business was to slash research budgets into pollution and to expunge any lofty ideal about controlling let alone punishing polluting industries.  What a pathetic human being!  Today we have a sordid mental midget, a weasel Prime Minister if ever there was one who has wantonly destroyed Canada’s former stellar standing in the international community by (without consulting the Canadian people I may point out) slithered us out of the Kyoto Treaty we were almost first to ratify and who  presently is moving heaven, no, make that hell, to promote the sordid Keystone Pipeline project to ferry dirty oil from the Alberta Tar Sands, across an entire continent all the way down to the Gulf of Mexico.  Who for? To enrich further the venal oil barons sitting in Houston, Texas and Calgary in Alberta his home province and of course political base.  Yet, Albertans are the heedless sheep who will bear the brunt of the ecological disaster to follow – a pox on him!

If you can read the Korean language the statistics posted below are self-explanatory or,  much easier as in my case, asking Ara to translate. 

I can assure you even intrepid Don Quixote would have thought twice about taking these giants on.  Image the height at 80 metres (263 feet) or if you can imagine it, the height of a North American skyscraper; individual wing span at 46.2 metre (147 feet) for a two wing span of 95 metres (312 feet) rotating at between 9 to 16.9 revolutions per minute.  These steel leviathans weight 11 000 kilos (24 25o pounds), are 4.8 metres (16 Ft.) measured at the base and 3 metres (10Ft.) at its summit.   These particular seven windmills provide a year’s supply of electric energy for the equivalent of a 12 000 household town.   Imagine now much more can be done if there is the political will to encourage and if necessary to fund the construction of thousands more across the world.   And here’s the not so secret method  to bend the for-hire political system to the will of an enlightened voting public to effectively prevail upon old, inefficient energy providers to mend their  ways.   Take it as an absolute that politicians are nobodies once booted out of office. The will of the people can be made to prevail with the power of the voting urn.   Use it!

I’m a convinced believer in the green power of modern windmill farms.  Much as their forerunners made use of natural wind flows over hilltops, these giants are a technological and structural wonder creating electric power that is economic and  renewable without limits. Definitely the future is in innovative power generation, whether with windmill farms, developing unlimited potential tidal power and maximizing other environmentally benign power generation techniques.  For example a valued friend, Jim K. has recently converted his home (London, Ontario)  into a solar power generating station.   He’s done himself a big favour by mitigating the rising cost of electricity, moreover adding reality value and contributing to the well-being of the environment by meaningfully reducing what he refers to as, “My carbon footprint”.  Check and consider this intelligent alternative with your local electricity provider and personally contribute to a greener world. Not only must we demand political action and corporate responsiveness, but renewable energy should not be merely a pious wish for individuals.

Beginning the northern swing back towards Seoul, we first headed for Andong, a thriving city of some 160,000 inhabitants.  It was interesting enough on its own, the usual good food and eclectic market place, but knowing my proclivity for authentic rural life-style, Ara was quite secretive about the next morning’s outing and the surprise was indeed worth the anticipation.   I enjoyed the drive through bucolic countryside and there around a corner my first glimpse of what surely was bound to be a fascinating look backwards into Korean history.  

First recorded presence dates to the 16th century, Hahoe Village is a traditional farming community from the Joseon Dynasty. Presently a valuable part of Korean culture as it preserves period architecture, folk art and customs, valuable ancient books and yet still maintains the old tradition of clan-based villages. It is organized around the geomantic guidelines of ‘pungsu‘ therefore in the shape of a lotus flower or two interlocking comma shapes.  Over six centuries, the Yu clan of Pungsan has persisted through hard times and good times steadfastly maintaining a one-clan community since its very first days.

In keeping with the unexpected an elaborate entrance greeted us after a long walk from the parking lot kept well away from view so as not to spoil the rustic charm of the village.  Just so there’s no misunderstanding, this is a real to goodness working and living village with farmers tending to their fields.  The food stalls, souvenir shops and folk art museum are segregated away from the ‘real’ village to afford maximum privacy for the resident farming folks.  

Inside the entrance an interesting gallery room was dedicated to inform visitors to the proud event celebrating the inclusion of Hahoe Village into the prestigious list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2010.  One year later locals were proud to receive none less than Elizabeth II on an official visit from the United Kingdom.   I semi-shocked Ara with a playful imaginary ‘up yours’ to Her Royal Majesty’s nose; a gesture in keeping with my well-documented aversion to anything resembling inherited wealth, power or position.  Without doubt it harkens to my father’s staunchly republican upbringing and my unwillingness to kowtow to anyone, period.    However, not to offend any of my Anglo friends, I assure you it was all in harmless fun; I’m not advocating a French-style ‘révolution’ although I wouldn’t oppose a bloodless version.  

Okay, I’ll be a goodl sport and for my friends who value monarchy (Lord knows why? I can’t help myself, sorry.) I offer a good photo without tom-foolery.

You’ll notice the gloves on a cool but overall pleasant day.  The advantage as any traveler knows that being on the road during a week-day and better still during off-tourist season usually results in much less congested visitor traffic.  There were a few tour buses but the village was large enough to wander freely about without more than occasionally encountering other sight-seers. 

Walking by an affluent home with splendid tiled roof next to traditional structures reserved for artisans and farmers.

The thatched roofs have been in continuous use for centuries and of course the reason why Hahoe village is so distinctive and unusual by modern building standards.  However, some years ago I was surprised to see many such roofs in Germany’s beautiful Swartzwald (Black Forest).  It is claimed with good reason a thatch roof is a fine insulator retaining heat during the winter and the interior cool in the summer.  Furthermore, new techniques are making it more viable economically; for my part it’s so much more attractive to the eye.

New thatch rolled up and standing by ready for use to replace old rooftops after an average seven years of sturdily handling the vagaries of natural elements. 

The reed material is grown and readily available locally as can be seen in the foreground of this next photo.

In keeping with the folk tradition of the locals many of the entrances to homes featured a carved wooden effigy of mythical creatures meant to keep bad luck and evil spirits in check. 

I couldn’t resist including plump magpies feasting on ‘organic’ tidbits selected from a pile of fresh manure provided via old time farming practices.  I love those clever birds as you must know if you’ve read the true to life tale entitled ‘Mac the Magpie’ found elsewhere in this blog.  Look for it under Fables From the Moonlight Garden, read and you’ll surely concur with my unrestrained admiration.

A well-stocked museum featured ancient carvings, traditional costumes as well as face masks as modelled by Ara. The village is notable because it has preserved many of its original structures, such as the local Confucian school and other buildings, and maintains folk arts such as the Hahoe Mask Dance Drama which is a shamanist rite honoring the communal spirits of the village

Strolling and gadding about the village compound a wide-limbed tree caught the attention; the sign gave the age of this stalwart as 400 years old and still growing large, tall and in great health.

The village hugged a clear flowing river providing home drinking water and feeding irrigation ditches; it is well protected by surrounding mountains and Buyongdae Cliff.  

We explored the outer limits of the village strolling along quiet lanes enjoying the  peaceful and attractive scenery – no wonder this village has been occupied for uninterrupted  centuries.  Now that it has been included as a worthy contributor to humankind’s historic heritage I’m confident under the auspices of  Korea’s Ministry of Culture but especially the prideful ownership of local inhabitants,  Andong’s Hakoe Village will delight new generations long  into the future.   Thus we come to the end of a most interesting visit, as usual too short lived but there’s always a next time for those of us who are forever optimistic, as I admit to have a natural propensity for such a happy frame of mind.  Next come along with me and Ara to charming Danyang City and a visit to an impressive  Buddhist temple complex.  

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